For over a thousand generations the Bead-I knights were the guardians of peace
Before the dark times of cheap mass production. before the rebellion
From deep within the bead hole came the rebellious Bead-I knights
With their thread and needles, they fought the evil dark side and and..
Oh, all right! So. it isn't an action packed romantic thriller.so .it is not really a rebellion but only two artists slightly miffed that seed beads do not get the appreciation they deserve.
It is, however, an innovative and inspiring adventure in stitch manipulation using five basic bead stitches: bead embroidery, brick, square, peyote, and right angle weave. From flat to three-dimensional beadwork, this book covers a range of shapes and forms with seven projects designed for the intermediate to advanced beading enthusiasts who are looking for ways to expand their skill to a level above the norm. It is a book for those who are ready to unleash their passion for this under appreciated art medium and learn simple and exciting ways to give dimension to beadwork.
|Product dimensions:||8.50(w) x 11.00(h) x 0.19(d)|
REBELLIOUS BEADSAdvanced Dimensional Bead Patterns
By Rebecca Brown-Thompson
AuthorHouseCopyright © 2006 Rebecca Brown-Thompson
All right reserved.
These feathers are an exercise in creating angles and curves with a square stitch. I reverse the colour sequences for variation.
Beads: Size 11/0 Beads: Black 3g Brown 2g Yellow 2g White 3g
Notions: Needles: #12 beading needle, Thread: Silamide Thread Black or some other appropriate colour (or Nymo C or D)
Earring Findings: 2 French Ear Wire Earring Findings
Stitches: Square Stitch and Fringe
Step 1: Feather Tip
Starting at the bottom (tip) end of the feather, make a loop of 3 black beads and tie together. Starting with the right (or left bead), square stitch 2 black beads to bead 1, then string on 3 black beads and stitch them to the middle bead. Finally, string on 2 black beads and square stitch to the last bead. This will form a modified triangle shape and the tip of the feather. You have now made 2 rows.
Step 2: Body of the Feather
Follow the coloured thread paths in the graph for each row. You will always be adding 3 beads to 1 on the middle bead, however watch for changes outside of the middle bead on either side. Follow the graph for bead colour changes as well.
When you get to row 9 you will notice a change on the ends. You will be square stitching 2 beads to 3 and then they will start decreasing on the ends after this row. They will not always be 2 to 3 but sometimes 2 to 2 and 1 to 2. Watch the centre bead shift in row 14. Here you will be square stitching the 3 centre beads to the right bead in the 3 bead grouping. Take note of that on the graph. There will be another shift again at rows 16, 17, and 22. You will also notice that in row 17 you will have 8 beads on one side of the centre bead and 9 on the other. Do not worry. It will work itself out after that.
Note: If you find it hard to keep track of the centre bead in the group of three, you might want to make that bead a different colour so that you can find it every time.
Step 3: Shaft of the Feather
When you get to row 25, finish the row on both sides then work back up the left side of the row and exit out the bead to the right of the centre bead (see diagram). If you happen to end up on the right side of the midrib when starting the feather shaft, just reverse the directions. Add 6 beads.
Skipping bead 6, run the needle back through the bead where you exited, then through the centre bead and out the bead on the other side. Add on 6 more beads.
Skip bead 6 and run the needle back through the bead you just exited and through the centre bead again. Add a loop of 3 beads. Repeat the process one more time with 4 beads added on each side instead of 6. Finish at the centre bead and add on 3 black beads to make the final loop that will hold your earring wire. Strengthen that by going through it several times.
Step 4: The Spine
Beginning on row 1 you will essentially be square stitching one bead to one middle bead perpendicular to your original square stitch. After square stitching the bead onto your work, make your way to the next middle bead in the feather, add another bead on top of that and so forth (see the diagram).
My spine matched the colours of the middle beads in each of the particular rows as it would in a real feather.
When you reach the last row, have your needle come out the newly added bead and start square stitching the top beads together down the centre, horizontal to your base. This will tighten the feather and pull it into a uniform curve. When you get to the end, weave your thread through the beadwork making half hitch knots and tie off.
Step 5: Adding the Earring Wire
Add your earring finding by gently bending the wire loop sideways, not straight out, and attaching it to the loop in the top of the feather.
The flower clip is made up of five flowers and three leaves attached to an Ultra Suede base. You will be manipulating tubular square stitch so that it begins as a narrow tube and flares out at the tip. The leaves are a simple introduction to RAW.
Beads: Size 11/0 beads, opaque or translucent Dark green 2.5g Olive-green 1.5g Blue purple (Periwinkle) 5.5g Purple 2.5g White 1g Clear medium sized drop beads 5 pieces
Notions: Needle - #12 sharp or longer beading needle, Thread - Silamide or equivalent Nymo size C or D Ultra Suede - 2 pieces of 3x3" (80 x 80 cm) Findings: Hair clip finding (French Barrettes) - 2"(5 cm) Glue: Goop, all purpose adhesive.
Stitches: Tubular Square Stitch Right Angle Weave (RAW) Picot Stitch
Step 1: The Flowers
Colour guide: Blue purple, purple
Make 5 flowers
Note: The graph for the flower is laid out as a flat graph for ease of reading; however, remember you are working a tube so the left side of the graph always joins the right side.
Row 1: Tie 3 blue-purple beads into a circle.
Row 2: Square stitch 2 beads to each one of the 3 beads to form a cylinder. Pull tight as you go. It may be a little hard to hold when you start but do persevere.
Row 3 to 10: Continue adding beads in square stitch following the graph for increases and colour changes until you have completed 10 rows. You will notice after you finish each row that you will be changing direction each time to start a new row. Note the colour changes as you work toward the end of the flower.
Step 2: Flower Edging
Colour Guide: Blue-purple, blue
At row 10 of each flower, a picot stitch edging is added. Exit the last 2 beads you square stitched in row 10, add on 4 beads then go back through the 2 beads you just came out of and back around to bead 4. Go through the next 2 beads in row 10, add 3 beads, loop back through bead 4 of the first loop then continue through the 2 beads in row 10 and so forth. Keep adding 3 beads every loop until you meet up with the first set of 4. Join the last loop to the first by adding only 2 beads and looping through bead 1. Tie off. You have now finished one flower. You need to repeat the process 4 more times for the other flowers.
If you would like, you may reverse the colour sequencing in the flower and/or do the original colour sequencing but change the colour of the picot (see photo). This gives it a more realistic look, since blue flowers in the wild will fade to pink as they are aging.
Step 3: Adding the Teardrop Bead
Tie a thread to row 2 (second one from the bottom) go through a bead in row 2 and out the centre of the flower. Put a teardrop bead on the thread and go back out a bead in the second row on the opposite side from where you entered. Secure with half hitch knots and tie off. Do this for all 5 flowers.
Step 4: Joining the Flowers
Join the flowers together in a pleasing arrangement. I joined 3 across for the bottom group and two across the top, but this is a personal choice. They may be grouped however you prefer. Square stitch together 1 or 2 beads from the picot edging to hold the flowers together in their groups. Then attach the bases together by running the needle in a square stitch pattern through the base beads of each flower. Try to not let the thread be exposed anywhere. When finished put the flowers safely to one side.
Step 5: The Leaves
Colour Guide: Olive green, dark green
The leaves are made using RAW (see stitch glossary). There are two dark green leaves with an olive green midrib and one olive green leaf with a dark green midrib.
Following the graph, begin at the small end.
Tie 5 green beads into a circle (four light olive and one dark green). The centre bead of the leaf will be a different colour, so make sure your thread exits the dark bead to begin the next loop of the beads in row 1.
Work RAW as you follow the graph up to the last row.
When you have finished row 22, carry on around the edge of the leaf adding beads in between the beads of each edge bead. Finish by adding beads through the middle of the leaf in between each centre bead. Be sure to use the same colour as the centre beads. Pull tight.
The leaf should pucker slightly to resemble a Rhododendron leaf.
Step 6: Suede backing
Trace the pattern and use it to cut out 2 pieces of Ultra Suede .
Step 7: Attaching Flower Cluster and Leaves to Backing
Place your flower cluster on the fabric so that it is centred left to right, and slightly above the horizontal centre line, top to bottom (see the diagram). You need room to place the leaves. Sew the flower cluster in position by sewing the base of the flower first then the outer edges of only the bottom 3 flowers to the fabric.
Position the leaves slightly under the flowers in a pleasing manner and sew their top ends to the fabric. Sew down the outer edges of the leaves as well, if they are too floppy. Sew down the rest of the bottom 3 flower tips over the leaves and secure them to the fabric as well.
Step 8: Adding Hair Clip
You will need to place your hair clip in the centre, n the reverse side of the second piece of fabric. Mark off where you will need to cut the fabric to allow the pin to come through. Once you have cut out your markings, push the hair clip through the Ultra Suede to be sure it fits. With fabric and clip still together, put glue on the clip only and position it over the other piece of fabric that has the flowers and leaves already sewn to it and stick it down. When that is dry, glue down the rest of the fabric and you are ready to edge.
Note: If you do not like glue on the thread, then your other option is to place card stock, fabric or another barrier between the two pieces of Ultra Suede and baste it in place. This will also stiffen the piece as well, which you might prefer.
Step 9: Finishing edges
Colour Guide: White
Trim the edges if necessary then begin edging. Use the same picot stitch that was used for the flower edging. To start, hide your knots between the fabric pieces. Using a sewing whipstitch start by adding 4 beads then sew through both layers of fabric. Come back out through bead 4, add 3 beads, sew through the fabric and so forth until you meet up with the first set (See graph for flower edging).
If you prefer, you can use any edging you would like, and/or change bead sizes and shapes to add more interest.
This piece is an exercise in combining stitches and manipulating them into simple flower shapes.
Beads: Size 11/0 Seed Beads: Use beads with large holes Pink-red 14g Gold lined pink 10g Yellow green beads 9 g
Beads for stringing necklace: 4 Large round crystals 10 mm- clear 10 Leaf beads - Olive green with horizontal holes 26 Round beads 5 mm - green 30 Seed beads 8/0 - pink 12 Seed beads 11/0 - yellow green 10 small round 8/0 or larger - green beads
Notions: Needles: #12 beading needle, #12 extra long beading needle Thread: Silamide or Nymo B or C Stringing supplies: Beading wire .014 100 cm length Crimps - 2 Clasp - 1
Tools: Crimping Pliers
Stitches: Right angle weave, Square Stitch
Step 1: Body of the Flower (Receptacle)
Stitch: Square stitch
Colour guide: Pink-red, gold lined pink, yellow green
The receptacle of the three fuchsia shaped flowers and the two small yellow green flowers will all be created with the same steps. You will work the body first, then the petals each in turn. The bead count specified by each graph will create the different sizes. Take note of colour changes as well.
Note: You will be making many thread passes through the same beads so it will be easier if your beads have large holes.
Note: The illustration is a flat representation of the stitching which is actually in a tubular form. You might want to bead around the small end of a chopstick when starting the base of your tube, as it is hard to hold the tube the first few rows.
You will be making a total of 5 flowers; 1 large, 2 medium, and 2 small.
Make a ring of 6 gold-lined pink beads for the large flower, six red-pink beads for the medium flowers, and 6 yellow-green beads for the small flower. With this ring as your base, follow the graph square stitching to row 20 for the large flower, row 17 for the medium flower, and row 16 for the small flower. At row 20 of the large flower, you will switch to the pink-red beads to finish the last row, and at row 17 for the medium flower switch to gold lined pink beads. The yellow green flower will have red-pink beads for the final row. Make note of increases as you move up the tube. Most of the time you will be square stitching 2 on 2 except where you start increasing and then adjustments will need to be made to accommodate an increasing number of beads in each row.
Step 2: The Petals
Large and Medium Flowers
Colour guide: gold lined pink, pink-red
First Row of Petals
The four top petals are worked along the last row (row 20 of the large flower and row 17 of the medium flower) in the same colour as the receptacle. For the large flower that would mean your top petals will be gold lined pink with a red-pink midrib and for the medium flowers, pink-red petals with a gold lined pink midrib. Exit out the right side of a bead at the top and begin the RAW for the petals.
Work 10 horizontal rows for the large flowers and 8 Horizontal rows for the medium.
When you get to the tip of the petal, add 3 beads to finish off the ends.
Now start working up the middle of the petal on the underside adding pink-red beads in between the middle pink-red beads and pull tight. This gives you the curl in the petal. Then work your way to the outside of the petal and start adding beads in between the outside bead in each set in each row all the way around the petal so you end up at the top again. Go back through the top beads of your petal, either going left or right depending on which way you came out the top and over one bead. Begin another petal the same way as before. You will do this 3 more times for a total of 4 petals on the top row. You will probably change thread direction several times as well so always look ahead and determine where you are going next so that the thread comes out at the correct angle.
Note: You can reverse the direction It doesn't matter as long as the sequence is a pink-red centre bead and 3 gold lined pink beads in each set. See the Stitch Glossary for definition of a RAW set.
Second Row of Petals
Move down the tube to the 3rd row from the top and begin a new series of 4 petals. For the large flower you will start on row 18 and for the medium flower, row 15. The petal colours will be reversed from the top row of petals. You will have 10 horizontal rows for the large flower and 8 for the medium flower. Arrange the petals so that they are right angles to the top set of petals, Finish off the same way with a 3 bead loop at the end and beads running up the middle and around the edges.
Third Row of Petals
The third row of petals is added at row 10 for the large flower and row 7 for the medium flower. There are only two petals with different row counts. Reverse the colours from the previous petals. Pick a spot on the tube so that they are aligned with the top set of petals and opposite each other on either side of the tube.
The large flower has one petal with 4 sets of horizontal rows and the other petal has 6 horizontal rows. See the diagram. The medium flower has one petal with 5 horizontal rows and the other petal is 3 rows. Finish off the same as the other petals, add 3 beads at the bottom, then run beads up the centre and around the edges. Tie off your thread.
Excerpted from REBELLIOUS BEADS by Rebecca Brown-Thompson Copyright © 2006 by Rebecca Brown-Thompson. Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Table of Contents
ContentsIntroduction....................page 5 Materials....................page 6 Tips and Hints....................page 8 Fancy Feathers....................page 10 Radical Rhodie....................page 13 Fantasy Flowers....................page 17 Casual Cactus....................page 22 Outrageous Orchid....................page 27 Magnificent Map....................page 37 Incredible Iguana....................page 47 Right Angle Weave (RAW)....................page 55 Brick Stitch....................page 56 Peyote Stitch....................page 57 Embroidery....................page 59 Square Stitch....................page 60 Edging....................page 61 Gallery....................page 62