Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition: A Comprehensive Guide

Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition: A Comprehensive Guide

by Topher Donahue, Craig Luebben

Paperback(2nd ed.)

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  • Seminal book updated by author of the acclaimed Advanced Rock Climbing
  • Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions
  • 400 new color photos demonstrate techniques

For this new edition of Rock Climbing Anchors, climber and writer Topher Donahue carefully reviewed each technique and lesson, making them even easier to understand and learn. Key updates include:
  • Improved content hierarchy, reading efficiency, and technique emphasis
  • Pros vs. Cons comparison lists
  • Technological advances and changes in gear and standards
  • Graphic illustrations of forces, movement, "right" vs. "wrong" technique, and more
  • New section on anchor considerations for the climbing gym
  • New distinction between "anchor" and "placement" or "piece"

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781680511406
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date: 04/01/2019
Edition description: 2nd ed.
Pages: 288
Sales rank: 750,550
Product dimensions: 6.80(w) x 8.40(h) x 0.80(d)

About the Author

Accomplished climbing guide, author, and photographer, Topher Donahue was, at age 14, one of the youngest American climbing guides in history. His climbing methods and philosophy evolved from his experiences with guides, climbers, and cultures across the globe. Topher lives in Nederland, Colorado. Visit him at and on Instagram at @Topher.Donahue.

Table of Contents

Introduction 9

How to Use This Book 13

Chapter 1 Anchor Basics

Types of Climbing Anchors 19

Forces on Climbing Anchors 22

How Many Anchors? 26

How Important Is Equalization? 28

V-Angle 36

Pulley Effect 38

Multidirectional Anchors 38

Climber Attachment to the Anchors 40

Belaying the Second 44

Belaying the Leader 47

Rock Type and Quality 51

Chapter 2 Natural and Fixed Anchors

Natural Anchors 56

Fixed Anchors 61

Chapter 3 Chocks

Evolution of Climbing Chocks 71

Wired Nuts 72

Hexagonal Chocks 81

Tricams 82

Sliding Nuts 84

Expandable Tubes 85

Size and Strength of Chocks 87

Chapter 4 Cams

Cam Evolution 91

Setting and Removing Cams 96

Good and Bad Cam Placements 97

Cam Testing 100

Cam Design 100

Chapter 5 Top-Rope and Rappel Anchors

Slingshot Top Rope 109

Top Belay 115

Rappel Anchors 117

Chapter 6 Sport Climbing and Bolted Anchors

Clipping Bolts 126

Rigging Bolted Anchors for Lowering and Top-Roping 127

Multipitch Bolted Anchors 131

Chapter 7 Traditional Belay Anchors

Belay Station 135

Belay Rigging Methods 136

Chapter 8 Gym Anchors

Belaying in the Gym 165

Slingshot Top-Rope Use 166

Auto-Belay Use 168

Lead Anchors 170

Anchors and Performance 173

Chapter 9 Trad Leading

Trad Climbing Gear Selection 181

Protecting the Climb 181

Duties of the Leader 190

Chapter 10 Climbing Forces

Newton's Laws of Motion 196

Potential and Kinetic Energy 197

Impact Force 199

Momentum and Impulse 203

Strength of Climbing Gear 206

Acknowledgments 208

Appendix 1 Webbing, Cord, and Carabiners 210

Appendix 2 Knots 214

Appendix 3 Equations 228

Glossary 231

Resources 239

Index 241

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